Most tourists zip through Bologna on the high-speed train between Florence and Venice. That’s a mistake. A big one. Bologna has three nicknames, and they tell you everything you need to know. La Rossa – the Red – for its terracotta rooftops and its left-leaning politics. La Dotta – the Learned – because it’s home to the oldest university … Read more
Some places look exactly like the postcards. Val d’Orcia is better. Rolling hills that shift from bright green in spring to soft gold in summer. Rows of cypress trees standing like dark sentinels on ridgelines. Little stone farmhouses that haven’t changed in centuries. My wife still talks about the first time we crested the hill … Read more
Imagine waking up in Tuscany. The sun spills over hills stitched with vineyards and cypress trees. A church bell rings in the distance. The question isn’t if you’ll fall in love with this place, but where you’ll rest your head at night. Most travelers face the same delightful dilemma: should you stay inside a medieval village, rent your own … Read more
My wife and I have a rule when we travel through Italy. We never order the same wine twice in a row. This rule has led to some disasters. In a small trattoria outside Orvieto, I once ordered a local red that smelled like a barnyard and tasted even worse. My wife took one sip … Read more
I still remember my first meal in Rome, standing in the shadow of the Pantheon. The waiter called me over with a smile, the menu had pictures of spaghetti and meatballs, and I thought I’d found heaven. Instead, I found lukewarm pasta from a bag and a cover charge that made my eyes water. The … Read more